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Surf Conditions: Ocean Waves, Wind Speed And Tide
By:
Published: October 30, 2006
At the center of surfing is a mastery of surf conditions. Contrary to most pursuits, surfing is not controlled by the participant, but dictated by the whims and predilections of the earth. Surfing not only requires that the surfer master his board, but keenness as an ocean sportsman, crack meteorologist and oceanographer.
Although the unpredictability of surf conditions may turn some people away, most find the aesthetic appeal of surfing in the unpredictability of the water. The surfer is always at the mercy of the water. The best surfing conditions do not occur in the span of a single morning or afternoon, but is the culmination of a life that is seeded, sometimes violently, many days in advance and nurtured over the course of thousands of miles.
The swell sought by surfers is a specific type of ocean wave, usually difficult to spot from the shores, and interspersed with other ocean waves. Unlike "regular" ocean waves which are choppy, a swell is usually consistent. Choppy ocean waves, usually short and unpredictable and lack the consistent direction and frequency of swells.
Local weather \and beach conditions influence a location's surf condition. For example, local winds can cause the surface of the waves to be choppy and unrideable, while beach topography will influence a swells shape. However, the greatest impact on local surf conditions usually occurs thousands of miles away. Waves are produced as a result of weather and water conditions thousands of miles away.
Waves can be described two different ways. Firstly, waves are the motion of displaced water. Secondly, waves are influenced by external factors, specifically wind-speed, duration of wind and the distance the waves travel; unlike currents which are consistent.
The best waves are a matter of momentum. The greater the wind speed, duration of the wind, distance of unimpeded travel and the more water displaced, the larger the wave. Although the largest waves come as a result of significant distance, wind-speed and wind duration, larger isn't always better and most often dangerous (although big wave surfing and tow in surfing are becoming more and more popular). On the other hand, interrupted travel, low wind speeds and sporadic gusts can cause water conditions that range from choppy seas to calm conditions, all of which are unrideable.
The depth and breadth required for quality waves are created in conditions with a medium to high wind-speed delivered for an unimpeded distance of thousands of miles. Although stable wind systems can generate the necessary momentum during certain consistent season specific times of the year, tropical storms can generate the most exiting surf conditions. The tumultuous conditions two continents and an ocean away provide the trademark and scenic waves of the best surfs.
Individuals who've adopted surfing as a lifestyle are longtime students of oceanography and meteorology. By studying weather conditions on the other-side of the earth, surfers can create their own surf predictions in advance. With resources such as Internet, a globe and a spreadsheet, surfers can combine data. Locations of maximum sea heights, approximate vector of waves (path), and fetch area (distance) are used to determine relatively accurate surf conditions for their beach at a certain time.
Home. 2006. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Wave Models. 2006. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Common Hazardous Beach, Surf and Ocean Conditions. Hawaiian Lifeguard Association. 12 Oct 2006. www.aloha.com
Create Your Own Surf Forecast. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Surfing. 2006. Wikipedia. 12 Oct 2006. www.wikipedia.org
Although the unpredictability of surf conditions may turn some people away, most find the aesthetic appeal of surfing in the unpredictability of the water. The surfer is always at the mercy of the water. The best surfing conditions do not occur in the span of a single morning or afternoon, but is the culmination of a life that is seeded, sometimes violently, many days in advance and nurtured over the course of thousands of miles.
The swell sought by surfers is a specific type of ocean wave, usually difficult to spot from the shores, and interspersed with other ocean waves. Unlike "regular" ocean waves which are choppy, a swell is usually consistent. Choppy ocean waves, usually short and unpredictable and lack the consistent direction and frequency of swells.
Local weather \and beach conditions influence a location's surf condition. For example, local winds can cause the surface of the waves to be choppy and unrideable, while beach topography will influence a swells shape. However, the greatest impact on local surf conditions usually occurs thousands of miles away. Waves are produced as a result of weather and water conditions thousands of miles away.
Waves can be described two different ways. Firstly, waves are the motion of displaced water. Secondly, waves are influenced by external factors, specifically wind-speed, duration of wind and the distance the waves travel; unlike currents which are consistent.
The best waves are a matter of momentum. The greater the wind speed, duration of the wind, distance of unimpeded travel and the more water displaced, the larger the wave. Although the largest waves come as a result of significant distance, wind-speed and wind duration, larger isn't always better and most often dangerous (although big wave surfing and tow in surfing are becoming more and more popular). On the other hand, interrupted travel, low wind speeds and sporadic gusts can cause water conditions that range from choppy seas to calm conditions, all of which are unrideable.
The depth and breadth required for quality waves are created in conditions with a medium to high wind-speed delivered for an unimpeded distance of thousands of miles. Although stable wind systems can generate the necessary momentum during certain consistent season specific times of the year, tropical storms can generate the most exiting surf conditions. The tumultuous conditions two continents and an ocean away provide the trademark and scenic waves of the best surfs.
Individuals who've adopted surfing as a lifestyle are longtime students of oceanography and meteorology. By studying weather conditions on the other-side of the earth, surfers can create their own surf predictions in advance. With resources such as Internet, a globe and a spreadsheet, surfers can combine data. Locations of maximum sea heights, approximate vector of waves (path), and fetch area (distance) are used to determine relatively accurate surf conditions for their beach at a certain time.
Home. 2006. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Wave Models. 2006. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Common Hazardous Beach, Surf and Ocean Conditions. Hawaiian Lifeguard Association. 12 Oct 2006. www.aloha.com
Create Your Own Surf Forecast. Stormsurf. 12 Oct 2006. www.stormsurf.com
Surfing. 2006. Wikipedia. 12 Oct 2006. www.wikipedia.org
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