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History Of Surfing: Duke Kahanamoku And Gidget Goes Hawaiian
By:
Published: October 30, 2006
Whether you live near an ocean or not, surf culture has influenced popular culture throughout the United States for over half a century. If you haven't seen an "A-Frame" or haven't given a "brudda howzit," you're probably not from the Big Island. Nonetheless, surfing has left an indelible mark on American popular culture and an enduring fascination within the American psyche.
The earliest mass-influences began in the middle of the twentieth century. Bands like the Beach Boys were played on national radio. Surfsploitation movies like "Beach Blanket Bingo" and "Beach Party" of the 1960s featured surfing and the surfing lifestyle as the backdrop to the story line (albeit stereotypically).
Beginning as a single surf-shop at Newport Beach catering to local surfers, Pacific Sunwear now has almost 900 locations and not just along the coasts, but in the landlocked prairie states as well. Unlike imported and forcefully adopted fads and fashion, the surfer style (although arguably superficial) has cemented itself as part of Americana.
The first European encounters with surfing were chronicled in the late 18th century during the third (and what would turn out to be the last) voyage of England's Captain James Cooke. On his journey through the Pacific, Cooke disembarked at Big Island of Hawaii. Following his death at the hands of the indigenous population, his first lieutenant completed the journals of the revered, late explorer. Included in the journals was a significant piece on the natives' surfing along the Kona coast.
According to the records, surfing had been mastered by the Hawaiians and was not just a past-time, but held a paramount role in Hawaiian culture. Known as he'e nalu in Hawaiian, wave-riding was revered as an art form and sport. Surfing was also considered a major component of their religion. Surfing was not limited to any specific group, but performed by the king and queen and commoners alike.
Rituals, chants and incantations for surfing were abundant. The long boards, made of wood and usually 12 to 24 feet long, were constructed according to a specific ritual. Chants and incantations were performed over the surfer, his or her board and the water to ensure a safe, good surf.
Culturally, the rite of surfing, the ability to surf well was revered. Commoners could become famous for their adeptness. A king or queen that could handle themselves swell-side would solidify their legendary status in the folklore of their people.
As European influence spread through the Hawaiian Islands, Christianity destroyed the Hawaiians' culture. Monotheism replaced the Hawaiian pantheon, while the foreign rites and rituals displaced Hawaiian traditions like surfing.
By the end of the 19th century, surfing was nearly absent from Hawaiian culture.
By luck or circumstance author Jack London came across native surfers while visiting the Hawaiian islands in the early twentieth century. London had happened upon a group of surfers at Waikiki. Included with them, itinerant journalist Alexander Hume Ford and George Freeth, who'd turn out to be the first world famous surfer.
Later that year, London would publish a short named "A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki", which would be republished several times more in various periodicals. Although London wasn't the first to write accounts of surfing, his would have the most lasting effect. Freeth would be invited to demonstrate surfing before crowds up and down the coast of Southern California. Although Freeth wasn't the first to surf the California coast (there are infrequent accounts of Hawaiian surfers in the early 19th century), he'd be the most memorable. In the mean time, Ford lobbied and successfully founded the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club in 1908. Although not the first surf club, the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club would drive rivalry and competition with the Hui Alu surf club founded three years earlier. Within four years, membership in the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club would total 1200, with many on the reserve list.
Hawaiians like Duke Kahuna would draw local and eventually world renown. Notable for his abilities as a swimmer, he would include surfing in his demonstrations. His performance in Australia in 1915 would be considered the birth of the Australian surf scene. Midwestern born, but California adopted Tom Blake and John H. "Doc" Ball would draw focus to the Southern California coasts.
As surfing grew as a sport, Hollywood filmmakers and musicians found inspiration in the art on the ocean. Movies like "Gadget" would draw the attention of hoales internationally and spawn a genre of surfing themed movies for the silver screen. Shows like "Hawaii Five-0" would bring Hawaii to the small screen. Musicians like Dick Dale, the Beach Boys and the Ventures would bring the surfer sound to radio.
Aspects of surf culture like music, lifestyle and fashion have long been popular. A seldom popularized aspect of the true surf culture is conservation. Perhaps a remnant of native Hawaiians' relationship with their island and the deification of aspects of the environment, surfing has strong ties with the protection of their beaches. Groups like the Surfrider Foundation are dedicated to protecting the shores, waters and wildlife from harm.
Currently, the sport surfing more than the fashion (but not by much) draws its own audiences worldwide. Surfing themed television has moved aside for televised surfing competitions. As the interest in surfing has steadily grown, so has the number of surfers. Surfing has moved well beyond the shores of Hawaii to both coasts of the United States, exotic places like Australia, Tahiti, Bali, Java, and South Africa, to colder waters like Europe and the United Kingdom.
About Us. 2006. Pacific Sunwear. 9 Oct 2006. www.pacsun.com
Events. 2006. Action Sports Media Lt\d. 9 Oct 2006. www.surfeuropemag.com
From Polynesia With Love. 2006. Ben Marcus/ Surfing For Life. 9 Oct 2006. www.surfingforlife.com
The earliest mass-influences began in the middle of the twentieth century. Bands like the Beach Boys were played on national radio. Surfsploitation movies like "Beach Blanket Bingo" and "Beach Party" of the 1960s featured surfing and the surfing lifestyle as the backdrop to the story line (albeit stereotypically).
Beginning as a single surf-shop at Newport Beach catering to local surfers, Pacific Sunwear now has almost 900 locations and not just along the coasts, but in the landlocked prairie states as well. Unlike imported and forcefully adopted fads and fashion, the surfer style (although arguably superficial) has cemented itself as part of Americana.
The first European encounters with surfing were chronicled in the late 18th century during the third (and what would turn out to be the last) voyage of England's Captain James Cooke. On his journey through the Pacific, Cooke disembarked at Big Island of Hawaii. Following his death at the hands of the indigenous population, his first lieutenant completed the journals of the revered, late explorer. Included in the journals was a significant piece on the natives' surfing along the Kona coast.
According to the records, surfing had been mastered by the Hawaiians and was not just a past-time, but held a paramount role in Hawaiian culture. Known as he'e nalu in Hawaiian, wave-riding was revered as an art form and sport. Surfing was also considered a major component of their religion. Surfing was not limited to any specific group, but performed by the king and queen and commoners alike.
Rituals, chants and incantations for surfing were abundant. The long boards, made of wood and usually 12 to 24 feet long, were constructed according to a specific ritual. Chants and incantations were performed over the surfer, his or her board and the water to ensure a safe, good surf.
Culturally, the rite of surfing, the ability to surf well was revered. Commoners could become famous for their adeptness. A king or queen that could handle themselves swell-side would solidify their legendary status in the folklore of their people.
As European influence spread through the Hawaiian Islands, Christianity destroyed the Hawaiians' culture. Monotheism replaced the Hawaiian pantheon, while the foreign rites and rituals displaced Hawaiian traditions like surfing.
By the end of the 19th century, surfing was nearly absent from Hawaiian culture.
By luck or circumstance author Jack London came across native surfers while visiting the Hawaiian islands in the early twentieth century. London had happened upon a group of surfers at Waikiki. Included with them, itinerant journalist Alexander Hume Ford and George Freeth, who'd turn out to be the first world famous surfer.
Later that year, London would publish a short named "A Royal Sport: Surfing in Waikiki", which would be republished several times more in various periodicals. Although London wasn't the first to write accounts of surfing, his would have the most lasting effect. Freeth would be invited to demonstrate surfing before crowds up and down the coast of Southern California. Although Freeth wasn't the first to surf the California coast (there are infrequent accounts of Hawaiian surfers in the early 19th century), he'd be the most memorable. In the mean time, Ford lobbied and successfully founded the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club in 1908. Although not the first surf club, the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club would drive rivalry and competition with the Hui Alu surf club founded three years earlier. Within four years, membership in the Hawaiian Outriggers Canoe Club would total 1200, with many on the reserve list.
Hawaiians like Duke Kahuna would draw local and eventually world renown. Notable for his abilities as a swimmer, he would include surfing in his demonstrations. His performance in Australia in 1915 would be considered the birth of the Australian surf scene. Midwestern born, but California adopted Tom Blake and John H. "Doc" Ball would draw focus to the Southern California coasts.
As surfing grew as a sport, Hollywood filmmakers and musicians found inspiration in the art on the ocean. Movies like "Gadget" would draw the attention of hoales internationally and spawn a genre of surfing themed movies for the silver screen. Shows like "Hawaii Five-0" would bring Hawaii to the small screen. Musicians like Dick Dale, the Beach Boys and the Ventures would bring the surfer sound to radio.
Aspects of surf culture like music, lifestyle and fashion have long been popular. A seldom popularized aspect of the true surf culture is conservation. Perhaps a remnant of native Hawaiians' relationship with their island and the deification of aspects of the environment, surfing has strong ties with the protection of their beaches. Groups like the Surfrider Foundation are dedicated to protecting the shores, waters and wildlife from harm.
Currently, the sport surfing more than the fashion (but not by much) draws its own audiences worldwide. Surfing themed television has moved aside for televised surfing competitions. As the interest in surfing has steadily grown, so has the number of surfers. Surfing has moved well beyond the shores of Hawaii to both coasts of the United States, exotic places like Australia, Tahiti, Bali, Java, and South Africa, to colder waters like Europe and the United Kingdom.
About Us. 2006. Pacific Sunwear. 9 Oct 2006. www.pacsun.com
Events. 2006. Action Sports Media Lt\d. 9 Oct 2006. www.surfeuropemag.com
From Polynesia With Love. 2006. Ben Marcus/ Surfing For Life. 9 Oct 2006. www.surfingforlife.com
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